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A SECOND CHAPTER CONCERNING THE DISCOVERY 
OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER BY DeSOTO, IN 

TUNICA* COUNTY, MISS. 


By DR. DUNBAR ROWLAND 


Reprinted from the Publications of the Mississippi Historical Society, 

Centenary Series, Volume II, 1918 



if r' j 


J 


A SECOND CHAPTER CONCERNING THE DISCOVERY 
OE THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER BY DE SOTO, 

IN TUNICA COUNTY, MISSISSIPPI.* 


By Dunbar Rowland, LL. D. 

Director Mississippi Department of Archives and History. 


The Commercial-Appeal of March 18th contains an answer by 
Judge J. P. Young to my article on the discovery of the Missis- 
sippi River by DeSoto, which appeared in the same paper of Feb- 
ruary 18th, in which he attempts to establish the contention that 
De Soto discovered and crossed the Mississippi River at Mem- 
phis. The issue is made, and is based on historical evidence. I 
accept it with pleasure, not only on account of Judge Young’s 
high character, great ability, and gentlemanly courtesy in contro- 
versy, but because I am convinced that a full and fair study of 
the evidence, as contained in the records made by eye-wit- 
nesses and participants, and of the opinions of the best historians, 
will establish the fact that De Soto discovered and crossed the 
Mississippi River within the 34th parallel in Tunica County, Mis- 
sissippi, and not at Memphis, as contended by Judge Young. In 
making the claim for Tunica County, I unhesitatingly assume the 
burden of proof, which requires that my contention be established 
by a preponderance of the evidence. Let us carefully examine 
the original testimony. 

THE BEST EVIDENCE. 

In the article of February 18th, referred to above, it was 
stated that : “The best evidence of all the incidents connected with 
the De Soto expedition is, of course, the written statements made 
at the time by accurate and truthful men who accompanied it, and 


* Rejoinder by the Editor. 


( 158 ) 


DeSoto Discovering the Mississippi — Rowland . 


159 


such narratives only can be received by the conscientious and 
careful historian.” The most reliable source of information is 
found in original records ; the most unreliable source is tradition, 
which is nothing more than hearsay evidence. The acceptance 
of the first source and the rejection of the last is the distinguish- 
ing characteristic of the scientific historian. Judge Young ap- 
plies these well known rules of evidence in the court over which 
he presides with learning, courtesy and dignity. If a litigant in 
His court, by his attorney, should attempt to introduce into the 
record of the case the same kind of hearsay and unsupported evi- 
dence which he introduces in support of his contention that De 
Soto discovered the Mississippi River at Memphis, it would be 
ruled out as soon as offered. I refer to his acceptance of au- 
thorities who wrote from hearsay and without special investiga- 
tion. 

What is the original record evidence in the question under dis- 
cussion? Who made it, and when was it made? Did the authors 
making the records know the facts, and were they truthfully re- 
corded? These are important questions in arriving at a correct 
conclusion. In my first article, in dealing with the narratives of 
the expedition which have come down to us, I stated that they 
were four in number, that the best and most reliable was the ac- 
count of Rodrigo Ranjel, that the narrative of the Gentleman of 
Elvas was the longest and stood next in rank, that the account 
of Eiedma was less reliable than the other two, and that the story 
of “The Inca” was unworthy of serious consideration, as it was 
founded on highly colored hearsay evidence. 

That accounts of the expedition should contain descriptions of 
the country through which it passed, is natural and to be expected, 
as next to the presence of the Indians the topography of the coun- 
try, its physical geography, flora, forests, streams, lakes, and high 
and low lands would attract the interest of the narrators. Such 
descriptions do occur in the narratives of Ranjel and Elvas. Since 
1541 the Indians have gone, their towns and villages are no 
more, and the forests have given place to cultivated fields, but 
the topography of the country through which De Soto and his 
men passed is the same today as it was then; we have the same 


160 


Mississippi Historical Society. 


character of country now ; time has not changed the geological 
formations. North Mississippi from Pontotoc County, along the 
old Chickasaw Tra 1 in a northwesterly direction to Chickasaw 
Bluffs, is the same hilly country today that it was in 1541, and 
West Mississippi, lying between the bluff formation which runs 
from Memphis to Satartia, Yazoo County, Miss., and the Mis- 
sissippi River, is the same low country abounding in streams, 
lakes and slashes as it did when De Soto passed over it on his way 
westward to the river. The route of the great explorer is written 
indisputably in the topographical features described by Ranjel 
and Elvas. It is common knowledge that the counties of Pon- 
totoc, Union, Marshall and De Soto, Mississippi, and Shelby 
County, Tennessee, through which the Chickasaw Trail ran, over * 
which Judge Young contends that De Soto passed on his way to 
the Chickasaw Bluffs, is hilly throughout. Do Ranjel and Elvas 
describe the “vermilion hills'* of North Mississippi, or the bottom 
lands of the Mississippi Delta? They say that from April 30th 
to May 8th, seven days, the expedition struggled through a wild- 
erness of forests, marshes, lakes and sluggish streams. Can 
there be a reasonable doubt that the seven days preceding the dis- 
covery of the river, on May 8th, were passed in the low, marshy 
lands of the Mississippi Delta? Do the counties in North Mis- 
sissippi, mentioned above, abound in lakes, basins, marshes and 
sluggish streams? Can the wildest stretch of the imagination lead 
us to believe that those seven days were spent on the well-trodden 
trail of the Chickasaws, on the high lands and ridges of those 
counties? It is not difficult to see why Judge Young touched 
so lightly on the topographical argument as given in my article of 
February 18th. Elvas and Ranjel described conditions existing in 
the section of Tunica County, between Coldwater River west to 
the Mississippi. 

If the DeSoto expedition ever reached such a prominent point 
as the Chickasaw Bluffs, is it possible that the narratives would 
not mention such a height overlooking the great river? The fact 
that it was not mentioned seems conclusive that the place was 


never seen. 


DeSoto Discovering the Mississippi — Rowland. 


161 


EVIDENCE FROM MAPS. 

In my former article it was stated that: “Not a map, so far as 
I know, gives Memphis the honor of being the point at which 
the Mississippi was discovered. ” This of course was a direct re- 
quest for such evidence. It is fair to presume that inasmuch as 
Judge Young failed to name a map which supports his contention, 
the evidence is not available. Such evidence in support of my 
contention is abundant. Delisle's map has already been cited ; in 
addition to that citation, I call attention to the map of Dr. Mitch- 
elle as given in “De Soto and Florida/’ by Barnard Shipp, Page 
660 ; to that in Channing’s “History of the United States,” Vol. L, 
Page 73; to Vol. II., “Narratives of Die Soto,” at the title page, 
edited by Bourne; to “Spain in America/’ page 134, also by 
Bourne. These could be reinforced by many others, but it is not 
deemed necessary to give them, in the absence of evidence to the 
contrary. Next to facts obtained from first hand testimony, 
and the evidence given by the topography of the country, the facts 
gathered from maps are the most important and convincing. 
Geography is a science dealing with the earth and its life, and its 
findings of fact are most important in all historical investigations. 

JUDGE YOUNG’S AUTHORITIES. 

In the preparation of his article, Judge Young evidently felt 
the weakness of his case from, the standpoint of the evidence con- 
tained in the original narratives of the expedition, and of maps 
fixing the place of the discovery and passage of the river, and he 
seems to^ rely more on the secondary evidence in the case as con- 
tained in the work of commentators, who had never specially in- 
vestigated the subject. In support of his contention, he quotes 
Bancroft, Shea, Ramsey, Claiborne, Keating and himself. Be- 
fore quoting authorities in support of my contention, it may be 
best to deal with his citations. Bancroft is quoted as saying, that 

De Soto “crossed probably at the lowest Chickasaw Bluff, not 

• 

far from the 35th parallel of latitude.” That is certainly not put- 
ting it very strong. Bancroft also says, “The search for som^ 

11 


162 


Mississippi Historical Society. 


wealthy region was renewed ; the caravan marched still further to 
the west. For seven days it struggled through a wilderness of 
forests and marshes ; and at length came to Indian settlements in 
the vicinity of the Mississippi/’ The Judge is not happy in quot- 
ing Bancroft for several reasons. In the first place, the word, 
“probably” is not quite convincing; then he describes the Missis- 
sippi Delta and not the “vermilion hills” of North Mississippi; 
and says that the expedition “marched still further to the west,” 
which is in conflict with the Judge’s unqualified statement that 
the march was always to the northwest. Judge Young’s greatest 
misfortune in quoting Bancroft lies in the fact that the eminent 
historian cites as authorities historians who disagree with him. 
He cites Belknap 1, — 192 who says De Soto crossed the river 
within the thirty-fourth degree; Andrew Ellicott’s Journal 125 
which gives the crossing place as “Thirty-four degrees and ten 
minutes”; McCullah’s Researches 526, “Twenty or thirty miles 
below the mouth of the Arkansas River.” As Memphis lies well 
above the 35th parallel it is readily seen that the citations are 
against it. The same comment applies to John Gilmary Shea. 
The position of Claiborne is disposed of in that portion of this 
article which gives the topographical evidence. As Ramsey, the 
Tennessee historian, only conjectures that Memphis was the place 
of discovery and crossing, such a statement carries little weight. 
Col. J. M. Keating in his history of Memphis says that the Vil- 
lage of Chisca was on the river; this is in direct conflict with nar- 
ratives and maps, and the same may be said of Young’s History 
of Memphis. These are all the authorities quoted by Judge 
Young. 

OTHER AND MORE AUTHENTIC AUTHORITIES. 

While I do not attach the same importance to the opinions of 
commentators, (which is only secondary evidence) as I do to 
the primary sources of information such as the original narratives 
and topography, I am at the same time entirely willing to meet 
my worthy and learned friend in that field also, and I shall now 
cite certain eminent authorities whose findings are not in accord 
with the Memphis theory. 


DeSoto Discovering the Mississippi — Rowland. 


163 


One of the first eminent historians who wrote the history of 
the Mississippi Valley was Dr. John W. Monette, and while his 
two-volume work, entitled “Monette’s Valley of the Mississippi/’ 
was published in 1846, it has never been superseded as the 
standard work on the subjects with which it deals, by any later 
history. In treating of the subject under discussion, he says, 
(Vol. I., Page 47) “Much doubt and uncertainty has obtained as 
to the precise point at which De Soto reached the Mississippi. It 
was evidently much below the latitude of Memphis, where he 
was toiling four days in advancing twelve leagues up the river, 
and seven days in his westward march through swamps and deep 
forests, from the up-lands east of the Tallahatchee. At no point 
above Helena are the highlands, on the east side of the river, 
more than ten or fifteen miles distant. The point where De Soto 
crossed the river was probably within thirty miles of Helena. 
The changes of the channel in the lapse of three hundred years 
may have been such as to defy identification now. 1 ’ Harper’s 
Encyclopedia of United States History says, (Vol. III., Page 
106) “Turning northward with the remnant of his forces, he 
fought his way through the Chickasaw country, and reached the 
upper waters of the Yazoo River late in December, where he 
wintered in great distress. Moving westward in the spring, he 
discovered the Mississippi River in all its grandeur in May, 1541. 
It was near the lower Chickasaw Bluff in Tunica County, Missis- 
sippi.” In the history of the United States by Dr. Edward Chan- 
ning, Professor of Plistory in Plarvard University, (Vol. I., Page 
73), a map is given which fixes the place of discovery about 20 
miles below the 35th parallel in Tunica County. These works 
have both been issued since the painstaking and scholarly study 
of the DeSoto route of Professor Theodore Hayes Lewis, quoted 
in my first article. In Larned’s “History for Ready Reference,” 
(Vol. II, Page 1178) it is stated that “At length, in the third year 
of their journeying, they reached the banks of the Mississippi, 
132 years before its second (or third?) discovery by Marquette 
* * * The Spaniards passed over to a point above the mouth 

of the Arkansas.” Dr. Edward Gaylord Bourne in his “Spain in 
America,” gives a map at page 134, which places the crossing in 


164 


Mississippi Historical Society. 


Tunica County, Mississippi. Belknap and Ellicott, referred to 
above, place the passage and discovery within the 34th parallel. 
And finally, Professor Lewis, in his study of every phase of the 
subject and every mile of the route as given in the publications 
of the Mississippi Plistorical Society, (Vol. VI., Pages 449 — 467), 
quoted at length in a former paper, fixes the discovery at Willow 
Point, in Tunica County, Mississippi. And let me repeat my as- 
sertion that the open-minded investigator cannot study his won- 
derful presentation of the subject without complete agreement 
with his conclusions. 

I believe that it is not over-stating the case to claim that the 
following contentions have been established by this and my first 
paper : 

First: That the best evidence of the De Soto route estab- 

lishes the fact that, from April 30 to May 8, 1541, it was through 
the low lands of the Mississippi Delta and not through the high 
lands of North Mississippi and West Tennessee. 

Second : That the topography of the country, as described 

in the narratives up to the very day of the discovery of the river, 
confirms the contention that it was made in the midst of a low 
country, abounding in marshes, lakes and sluggish streams. 

Third: That the maps of the route of De Soto all give the 

point of the discovery and crossing within the 34th parallel. 

Fourth : That the best and most accurate commentators on 

4 

the subject place the point of discovery and crossing between the 
mouth of the Arkansas River and the 35th parallel. 

Fifth: That the preponderence of evidence gathered from 

both original and secondary sources, establishes the contention 
that Tunica County, Mississippi, was the scene of the discovery 
and crossing of the Mississippi River, May 8, 1541, by Her- 
nando De Soto. 



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